Keeping and Breeding Superworms
Zophobas morio
|
Super Worm Factoids |
|
| Origin | Central and South America |
| Size | Two inches |
| Temperature | Room temp fine |
| Foods | Any grain or cereal -- keep dry but … |
| Add Water Source | Carrot, potato, apple |
| Container | Any slick sided container with a cover |
| Culture Medium | Bran works best |
| Feed to … | Lizards, hedgehogs, birds, fish, turtles |
| Biggest Threats |
Cannibalism, mice, ants, mold |
http://www.aqualandpetsplus.com/Live Food, Super Worms.htm
These feeders have incorrectly been called ZOOPHOBAS, ZOOPHOBIAS,
ZOOPHOBIAS MARIO, with the common names of KING MEALWORM and SUPERWORM.
They look very similar in appearance to the Telibrio molitor a.k.a.
mealworm only larger hence the name SUPERworm. They are different from
mealworms in care and are also lower in chitin (the hard exoskeleton)
than mealworms making it easier for your reptiles to digest. Aside from the size,
another important difference is these "worms" can NOT be refrigerated.
It will kill them. Another significant difference is mealworms do not
bite, superworms DO if given a chance. You are probably aware that they are not worms at
all, but rather the larval stage of the beetle Zophobas molitor.
Breeding
When breeding these feeders, the key is to
separate the larvae (worms) from each other. The superworms will consume the
vulnerable pupae for moisture if allowed.
Substrate The substrate should be wheat bran, oat bran or uncooked
oatmeal. It should be kept dry enough to avoid mold and
will need to be changed out periodically. The
substrate will become a fine powder as the superworms
ingest it. Sift through it to move the feeders to fresh bran.
Be careful not to lose any eggs. The
substrate should be two to four inches thick. 
One
popular method of separation can be achieved by placing individual superworms in
separate 35mm film containers with a small hole in the top. No food is provided,
only a small amount of substrate.
Another method is to use "tackle box" type divided containers. If you
chose the latter, you need to put the tackle box in a dark place. The purpose is
to cause stress which induces the metamorphosis from larvae to pupae. The
superworm should become motionless, curl up and start to change form in a few
days. If it becomes motionless and does not curl, it is probably dead. After 1
to 2 weeks the pupae should turn into the beetle. Place the beetles into their
own "breeding" colony". Make sure you have a sufficient amount of apples or
other source of moisture in the colony. They will be extremely thirsty after the
metamorphosis is complete. The new beetles will start to mate and
lay eggs within several days (roughly 1 week) of pupating and will continue to
do so for approximately 4 months (after which they die).
Enclosure
Plastic Tupperware type containers that are at least 5"-6" deep will work. The other dimensions depend on the size of breeding colony you want. You need about 3" from the top of the substrate to the top of the container and the substrate should be 3"-4" deep. Cut out a section of the top and hot glue insect screen on to allow for air flow and reduce humidity.
Temperatures
The best temperatures for the superworms are between 70ºF and 80ºF. Lower temperatures cause great reductions in growth rates up to death at much colder temps. Refrigeration will kill them and unlike mealworms they do not automatically pupate at room temperatures presumably because of their cannibalistic nature.
Food and Water
The substrate is sufficient food, but they will need a source of moisture or they will cannibalize others in the colony. It is not necessary to use WATER as it will cause higher humidity and create mold. Good sources of moisture can include vegetables, greens, apple slices, and such.
Myths and Problems
It has been said that superworms can eat their way out of a reptiles stomach after it has been consumed. The process of eating them usually entails their being chewed, but in any case they are sure to be dead by the time they make it to the animal's stomach and come into contact with the digestive juices. They can however, bite if left in the enclosure with a reptile for an extended period of time so feeding them out should be monitored and uneaten insects removed to be fed at a later time. A soft bodied white "worm" is what you'll see after a successful molting has occurred. This is a great time to feed them to your pet. They are lower in chitin in this stage of growth.
Some different looks
http://www.aqualandpetsplus.com/Live Food, Super Worms.htm
http://www.progeckos.com/caresheets/superworm.htm
