Keeping and Breeding Woodies
Nauphoeta cinerea
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Woodies Factoids |
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| Origin | Carribean |
| Size | 1 1/4 inches |
| *Interesting Fact | Some females are capable of switching from a sexual mode of reproduction to an asexual mode when isolated from males. |
| Life Span | Males 365 days Females 344 days |
| Time from last molt to copulation | 6 days |
| Incubation period in brood sac | 36 days |
| Average broods per female | 6 |
| Nymphal Development | 7-8 molts, males 72-73 days, females 85-94 days (quicker in isolation) |
| Maturation rate of hatchlings | 99% |
| Average clutch size | 33 eggs per ootheca |
| Temperature | Room temp fine |
| Foods | Pelleted rabbit, |
| Add Water Source | Carrot, potato, apple |
| Container | Any slick sided container with a cover |
| Culture Medium | Bran works best |
| Feed to … | Lizards, hedgehogs, birds, fish, turtles |
| Biggest Threats |
Cannibalism, mice, ants, mold |
*http://www.blackwell-synergy.com/doi/abs/10.1046/j.1525-142x.1999.99001.x?![]()
One of the best but most under
appreciated insects in terms of food value, maintenance and ease of
breeding has to be the Nauphoeta cinerea or as most people in refer
to it, the Woody. An alternative common name is the
Lobster Cockroach. Other common names used are the Madeira, Cinereous,
Tampa, Speckled and finally "Woodie". Woodies are a medium sized insect
, approximately three
centimeters long, they don't smell, they live for about a year, anyone can
breed them, but more importantly most herps love them.
Disadvantages? Perhaps the main one is that they do climb up and out of
plastic/glass containers if not prepared properly. A reminder that if these
roaches do escape they will not take over your premises.
Woodies are:
¨
¨ Live for up to a year.
¨ Equally as acceptable to reptiles & amphibians as other foods.
¨ Perfect for Dragons, Geckos, Skinks, Monitors and frogs.
¨ Make no noise.
¨ Unlike crickets, they almost ‘thrive on neglect’.
¨ Have no odor.
¨ Do not jump.
¨ Do not bite.
¨ Do not fly.
¨ Soft bodied.
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Housing: In the wild woodies live under bark or wood, however it is not necessary to replicate these conditions, a simple container filled with shredded paper and cardboard cylinders is perfectly acceptable. The one thing to note when choosing a container is although woodies cannot jump they are capable of climbing most materials, including glass. The roaches can be kept in plastic containers that are fitted with a lid, very similar to the one described as the colony container for breeding crickets. For small quantities, round bucket type containers are O.K. but for larger quantities large flat sided containers are preferable giving the insects housing with more surface area. These should also come with a lid. A suitable container to use measures 24" x 16" x 8" deep. The lids should be well ventilated (not just a couple of holes drilled). Cut the majority of the center part of the lid out leaving just the outer rim and at least a 2" section all around to fix the mesh to. Purchase enough fly screen (the wire one – not the fiberglass one) to cover the cut out section with a bit of overhang. With a hot soldering iron, gently press the screen into the plastic lid. No glue needed – you now have a perfectly sealed ventilated lid. |
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Example Roach Colony Container
(Click the image to the left for a larger view) |
As mentioned, the roaches have the ability to climb up and over and out of plastic and glass containers. There are two methods of containing them. One method is to put a generous smear of Vaseline around the top inner surface as was done in the above picture. This generally works but can become a bit messy. Another useful trick is to place a 2" wide strip of tape around the inside of the container so as to discourage woodies for running out when the container is opened.
To provide your insects with a hiding area and also increasing the habitable living surface area, obtain some egg box trays, fruit divider trays or opened egg cartons. Place plenty of these down one end of the holding container. If you are using the flat trays be careful to place them so they don’t collapse down on each other once stacked.
No substrate is used. This enables it to be cleaned easily.
The greatest detrimental aspect of these insects which deters many people is resemblance to the feared, Periplaneta americana American cockroach and Blattella germanica German cockroach. Unlike cockroaches woodies carry no diseases and much prefer to live outside under dead wood or tree bark than scurrying around your kitchen in the middle of the night but their capacity as a feeder insect has suffered significantly as a result of this physical resemblance.
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Biology of Nauphoeta cinerea based on Laboratory Data
(Averages) at 86° F:
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Heating: The roaches do prefer to be kept at 77 - 86° F. This can be maintained by having them on a heat mat or flexible heating element. A probe thermostat or dimmer can control the temperature. The warmer they are, the more active they are.
Feeding: Woodies survive best when fed on food pellets (rabbit, guinea pig, cat, dog ...) with a piece of carrot, lettuce or orange for moisture. It is best to keep a pile of pellets in one corner of the enclosure so there's always food available. Rep-Cal Cricket food etc but the ‘fresh’ carrot is important for moisture. No water is supplied. Provide enough carrot that your colony will devour in two days. Remove any uneaten carrot at this time or earlier if the carrot starts to spoil. Remember what you feed them is what you are feeding your herp. A good gutload will enhance their nutritional value.
Breeding: Breeding is the easiest part of keeping woodies. All they require is an enclosure temperature around 68ºF and they will breed continually. There is no need to separate the different ages as they will not adversely effect each other, and doing so can be difficult as growth rates vary significantly between individuals. This slow growth rate is a negative aspect of woodies with some individuals taking up to ten weeks to reach adult size.
Cleaning: Shake insects from the cardboard hiding trays, tilt the holding container towards you, scrape any rubbish etc to the front of the box, return hiding material and roaches will go back under this. After a few minutes all that is left at the front end of the box is the rubbish which can then be removed. Practice makes perfect.
Handling: The roaches can be quite fast but cooling can control their speed. Naturally, when they are on a heat mat and kept at 85° F they are at their full potential, speed wise. Even by removing the container from the heat source and placing on the floor, particularly in the cooler months, is enough to slow them down to half speed. With a bit of practice and experimentation, you will find the method that suits you best.
Removal from the holding container can be achieved in many ways and you may come up with some better methods. Here are some suggestions:
Remove them individually from the container with a pair of tweezers.
Keep toilet tissue rolls inside the container and when you require a number simply remove one of these rolls which should have roaches inside.
Shake one or more of the cardboard dividers into a bucket that has Vaseline around the inside top.
To slow them down, catch them first and place them in a container that can be put in a cool place like a refrigerator. How slow you want them to be can be determined by the length of time you leave them in the fridge or the cool spot.
Remember to periodically dust your insects with Rep-Cal Calcium & Herptivite Multivitamins.





